Archive for July, 2009

If you clean commercial office buildings, you should know the difference between Class A, Class B, and Class C buildings. Why? Because when you bid on office buildings, you’ll most likely charge more per square foot for a Class A office than you will for a Class C office.

Property managers and owners of Class A office buildings usually have very high standards of cleanliness. They may also have specialized cleaning needs. Because of this you’ll be able to charge more for cleaning services.

Class A buildings have high-end finishes such as hard wood moldings like maple and cherry; 6 panel doors; countertops and flooring made from corian or natural stone such as granite and marble; sinks and faucets that are corian, china, and gold. Class A buildings will have high quality carpet or carpet tile, windows and doors. The building exterior will have an upscale design and look, and you’ll see more angles and architectural details. You’ll also see natural stone, granite, stamped concrete, fountains, high-end lighting and landscaping.

Class B buildings may have some of the same surfaces as a Class A office building, but a lesser grade. You will see a mix of hard woods, wood flat panel doors, formica countertops, ceramic tile, porcelain sinks and toilets. Design and look are not at the level of the Class A building. Medium grade carpet or carpet tile. You’ll see fewer angles and architectural details on the buildings.

Class C buildings will use lower cost materials, formica countertops, vct or sheet vinyl floors, vinyl baseboards, and lower grade carpet. The design will be basic with the use of lower grade windows and doors. You’ll also see very few angles and architectural details on Class C buildings. Steel buildings would also fit into this category.

Copyright (c) The Janitorial Store (TM)

Sometimes custodial workers are in such a hurry to get the job done that they’re not cleaning properly, or they’re working too hard to get things cleaned. That’s because they’re not letting the tools and chemicals they’re using do most of the work. Below are 6 keys to cleaning more effectively, without wasting more time or energy in the process.

1. Taking advantage of time. Many cleaning chemicals need time to work, so if you just spray and wipe, the area may not be properly cleaned or disinfected. Read the directions on the label to see if the chemical needs dwell time in order to kill germs or loosen soil so you can more easily remove it from the surfact you’re cleaning.
2. Using the wrong chemical for the job. If you have greasy build-up on a stovetop, using an all-purpose cleaner may be the wrong choice because you’ll have to work much harder to get it clean. Choosing a degreaser or citrus cleaner that can break through the grease is a much better solution.
3. Agitation. Sometimes just spraying and wiping won’t get the job done properly. You may need a little more “elbow grease”, or you may need better equipment to clean more effectively. If you have a ceramic tile floor with dirty grout, you’d be better off using a slow speed floor machine with a good cleaning chemical and a nylo-grit brush in order to agitate the soil so it can be more easily removed. This is much more effective than trying to do it by hand with a grout brush.
4. Temperature. Some cleaning chemicals work best with hot water, and some work best in cool water. Be sure to read the directions to find out what water temperature you should be using when diluting the cleaning chemical.
5. Ventilation. When cleaning floors or carpets, ventilation is important to make sure the surfaces dry quickly. If floor surfaces are allowed to stay damp, you could be creating additional problems like growth of mold and mildew.
6. Soil removal. Some cleaning tools like feather dusters don’t remove soil, they just spread it around. Likewise, using vacuum cleaners without sealed bags or Hepa filters can spread soil that was just vacuumed up out into the air again. So removing soil is key to cleaning more effectively.

Think about the tools and procedures you use to clean. Is there equipment that you can use to make the job easier and more efficient? Are you using the cleaning chemicals according to the directions on the label? If not, consider the above tips and start cleaning more effectively.

Copyright (c) The Janitorial Store (TM)

Mopping floors seems like one of those things everyone knows how to do, but few people actually know the right way to do it. If you’re not using the right technique, you’re causing a lot more work for yourself and are probably taking a chance with your own safety as well. Following are the steps to proper mopping:

1. Mop heads come in different sizes. Choose a weight that works for your body size. If you choose one that is too heavy, you’ll likely put too much stress on your back and it might be more difficult to move quickly and efficiently.
2. Fill your mop bucket with 4 gallons of cool water. Add your cleaning solution according to manufacturer’s directions. Always use a neutral pH floor cleaner to keep from damaging any finish on the floor.
3. Before you start mopping a floor, make sure you sweep or vaccum it first. If you don’t remove the loose soil, you’ll simply push it all around the floor, making more of a mess. Use a putty knife to remove gum, stickers or other items stuck to the floor.
4. Put out wet floor signs near entrances to the area you’ll be mopping.
5. Start at the farthest corner of the room and work your way backwards toward the door. Keep the mop bucket on the section of floor that has not been mopped yet in an area where it won’t be tripped over.
6. Start by mopping along the baseboards to keep from slopping your cleaning solution up onto the wall or baseboard. Then fill in the open areas.
7. Never push the mop forward and backward. Instead, move it from side to side in a figure eight motion, overlapping each stroke as you move back and forth. Keep your back straight as you mop – do not twist your spine, as it puts stress on the back. Use your arm muscles to move the mop back and forth – do not use your back muscles.
8. As one side of the mop gets soiled, turn it over to use the other side.
9. Rinse the mop in clean water and wring it out. Try to wring out as much liquid as possible, but do not force the wringer and do not twist the mop head as it will break the fibers.
10. Change water as necessary.
11. When the floor is dry, pick up the wet floor signs. Rinse out the mop head, mop bucket and sink. Store the mop properly – hang it so it can air dry.

Copyright (c) The Janitorial Store (TM)